Leo’s Grandevous Italian Restaurant, located on the corner of 2nd and Grand Streets, has been at the heart of Hoboken for 85 years. With a history as rich and enchanting as the Italian food served every day, this mainstay attracts hundreds of people each year and has stood the test of time. Leo’s is Hoboken’s oldest, family-owned restaurant and has been run by Leo DeTerlizzi and his descendants since 1939. We had a chance to sit down with Grace Sciancalepore, Leo’s granddaughter, who currently operates the business with her brother, Nick, to learn more about her life growing up in Hoboken, her legendary grandparents, and what it’s like to be a part of Hoboken history. Read on to learn more about Grace, her family, and the nearly century-old family business.

Taking Over a Business

Leo, an Italian man who emigrated to the United States in the 1930s, met and fell in love with Tessie, a beautiful Italian-American woman who happened to catch his eye during a soccer game at the soccer club in Jersey City. After getting married, the couple lived above the restaurant which, at the time, was operating as more of a ‘hang-out’ for local men. Leo got a job at the bar and, when the previous owner returned to Italy to fight for Mussolini, Leo was offered an opportunity to take over the business in the early 1930’s.

“At the time, it was more of a hang-out,” Grace shared with The Hoboken Girl. “It was a pool hall where people played cards and hung out at the bar. When Grandpa took over, he turned it into more of a restaurant and Grandma did all the cooking.”

Grace talked about the hard work her grandparents put into building the restaurant and some of its first customers. “At the time, we would get a lot of the pier workers, dock workers, and factory workers. They would come in after their shift was over for a drink and maybe something to eat.” Since the days of Hoboken being a factory town, a lot has changed, but Grace looks back fondly on her childhood in Hoboken.

Read More: Hoboken’s Oldest Family-Owned Italian Eateries + Restaurants

Growing Up in The Mile Square

“It was a tough town, but everyone looked out for each other.” This was one of the first descriptions Grace shared when asked about her childhood in Hoboken. Grace is a third-generation Hobokenite and her sense of pride and love for her hometown was apparent. She went on to talk about the role her community played in her upbringing.

“There was such a sense of loyalty amongst the community. Every night, people went out on their stoop and the kids would just play on the sidewalk and they had a hundred eyes on them, at all times,” she shared. “And that really made Hoboken what it’s all about.” Times were different, especially for girls as Grace grew up in the 70s and 80s. “As a little girl, growing up on Garden Street, I can remember there was a specific way I had to walk to the restaurant to visit Grandma and Grandpa so my mom knew eyes were on me the entire route,” she shared. Even in the restaurant, women and girls were not allowed to sit in the bar area. “Grandpa was very strict about that. I would come in and go straight upstairs to do my homework,” Grace remembers.

The Family Business

Leo’s is one of the oldest, family-run restaurants in New Jersey. “It was understood that you would work for the business at some point,” Grace noted. As she grew older, her responsibilities at the restaurant grew with her. “You know, we would start with small things like filling the bread baskets, stuff like that, and then, eventually, you would become a server.” Grace’s mother, Martha, also played an integral role in keeping the business running smoothly. “You really cannot talk about the success of the business without talking about Mom,” she said.

Grace shared an emotional memory of her mother who passed away just about 18 months ago. “She really was their ace in the hole.” Grace’s mother stepped in to help run the restaurant wherever she was needed. Grace fondly remembers her mother working at the restaurant every Friday during her childhood. “Mom would go to work on Fridays because it would be packed [at the restaurant]. It was always ‘daddy-daughter’ night on Fridays while my mom was at work and that was really special.”

Grace stepped away from the business for a while after getting married and having children before coming back as co-owner about nine years ago. During her time away from the business, she remained involved in the Hoboken community as a teacher at Hoboken Catholic for many years before working at Stan’s Sports Center and St. Anthony’s School. She talked about her unlikely return to the business. “I was going to take it easy! Maybe redo my house,” she laughed. But, the business had other plans for her. Just as she was finishing up her education career, her cousin, Sergio DeNichilo, who was a co-owner of the restaurant, decided to retire and her brother, Nick, asked her to come back. At first, she agreed to join part-time, but is now fully engrossed in the business and loves it.

The History

Walking into Leo’s is like stepping into a piece of Hoboken history. The walls are lined with dozens of photos of Hoboken’s most recognized face and voice — Frank Sinatra. Grace explained that Frank and Leo grew up around the same time and “within the same circles.” As he was getting his start, Frank, his band, and crew would come to Leo’s after-shows for food and drinks. The restaurant became known as his hangout until he moved out west to continue to grow his career.

“Unfortunately, he never really came back to Hoboken after moving out there. Many think he may have been ashamed of his humble beginnings, but it’s exciting to be able to pay tribute to him in this way,” she said.

In addition to Old Blue Eyes, Leo’s continues to honor the individuals who have made the restaurant what it is. Many of the customer favorites on the menu are the same recipes from Tessie, who started serving them over 50 years ago. Even the bar is the original bar that was built decades ago. Leo’s recently renovated the bar area because, after 80 years, “things needed to be updated,” shared Grace. While the result is beautiful, some customers questioned the need for renovations. “I think they just like nostalgia,” Grace explained. Leo’s is committed to providing the same sense of community and good eats today as it has for the last eight decades and this commitment has made the business stand out.

The Food

Of course, one of the main reasons Leo’s has been such a constant in the Hoboken community is the delicious food. Customers come from near and far to grab a bite for lunch or dinner, but menu favorites vary by crowd. “Well, depends on who you ask,” shared Grace when asked about some of the most popular menu items. “If you’re asking someone older who’s been coming for years, they’re going to say the shrimp parm, the pizza, or the mussels. But if it’s someone younger or a newer customer, they’re probably going to say one of the specials,” she continued.

 

 

 

 

 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A post shared by Leo's Grandevous (@leosgrandevous)

The kitchen staff at Leo’s is complete with employees who are just as loyal to the business as the family. Grace explained that the average tenure of the kitchen staff is about 25 years, which is a testament to the loving environment created at the restaurant. Perhaps, one of the most legendary creations to come out of Leo's kitchen is the eggplant fra diavolo. A years-old Hoboken legend has it that this dish induces labor. “Oh geez…Leo and Tessie are rolling over in their graves about this one,” Grace laughed when asked about this wives tale. “But, apparently, it’s true…it induces labor, but you have to be at or past your due date,” she shared. Many babies have been born shortly after the mother has eaten the eggplant fra diavolo, so much so that Grace had onesies made that say “I’m a Leo’s Eggplant Baby,” for families. The food is what draws people in, but the love and community keep them coming back.

Supporting the Community 

One of the principles Leo’s was founded on was giving back to the community. “Grandpa did a lot of that,” Grace shared. “And so much of the good he did we didn’t even know about until after he passed and people would come in and share stories about how he helped them.” She talked about how Leo and Tessie would provide for families who may have fallen on hard times and how integral they were in large community events.

The family has been involved in the Hoboken Italian Festival, which happens on the waterfront every September. “The festival honors where we are from in Italy, so it’s really important to us,” Grace shared. She went on to say, “It’s like our Christmas! The whole family comes to celebrate and it’s just always a good time.”

Grace and her husband, John — also a born and raised Hobokenite, also like to support local businesses and have since they were children. “We miss so many of the bakeries that used to be here,” she remembers with fondness. “But, now, we try to support all of the new businesses that come to town. We try to get to all of the businesses when they open to show our support.”

See More: 24 Italian Restaurants in Montclair + Bloomfield, Based on Your Preferences

Grace and her family have created something special with Leo’s Grandevous Italian Restaurant. They are a testament to the power of family, love, tradition, and loyalty. While Hoboken is changing all around them, Leo’s knows a quality product made with love will always stand the test of time. Be sure to stop by Leo’s for a bar pie, mussels, or just to enjoy the company.